Petland Pensacola offers valuable information on caring for your reptiles and choosing a pet that is right for you.
Artificial or Live Plants – Most reptiles need some type of cover in their natural environment. Live or artificial plants will provide cover, reducing stress and aggression. Live plants also help maintain relative humidity.
Driftwood, Vines & Branches – These items also provide cover and climbing surfaces for arboreal species.
Plastic or Ceramic Caves – These items provide cover for ground dwelling and burrowing species.
Natural-Looking Water Dish or Drip System – In the wild, reptiles drink water from various natural sources. Pick natural-looking water systems that provide water in a familiar format.
Substrate – Absorbs waste, keeps pet and cage clean, provides a hiding place, and helps maintain or reduce humidity. Improves natural aesthetic quality of enclosure.
Litter Scoop – Removes waste from substrate.
Fresh Water Spray Bottle – Misting the enclosure will provide humidity and drinking water for certain species.
Book – Includes training information, breed information and instructions for ongoing care.
Hand Sanitizer – Cleans and disinfects hands before and after handling.
Pet Safe Disinfectant – For use in disinfecting the pet’s enclosure.
Enclosure and Secure Top – Provides a proper home for your reptile. Assures safety and security. Secure top keeps your reptile safely inside enclosure, keeps other pets and little hands out.
Light Fixture – For use with fluorescent (UVB) & incandescent bulbs.
Day Heat Bulb – Reptiles are mostly ectothermic (cold blooded) meaning they regulate body temperature by moving through a temperature gradient. Incandescent bulbs raise ambient air temperature to keep your reptile active, while providing a heat gradient.
Night Heat Bulb and Ceramic Heat Emitters –Produces heat with little or no bright light to maintain temperature at night without disrupting rest cycle.
UV-B Bulb – Allows animal to metabolize vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium absorption. Must pass directly into animal, no glass or plastic between light and animal. The pet must be able to get within 12 inches of the light source.
Under Tank Heater – Provides bottom heat for digestion & basking. Warms moist substrate for added humidity.
Thermometer/Hygrometer – Monitors temperature and humidity in your reptile’s environment, assuring it meets your particular reptile’s requirements.
Pellet or Frozen Processed Food – Convenient supplement to live and fresh food. Helps to provide balanced nutrition
Live Food – Live food such as crickets and mealworms are a great source of protein as well as carbohydrates, fats, and fiber. It also provides a vehicle for giving your reptile vitamin supplements when dusted or gut loaded (see below). Many animals will only respond to the movement of live food.
Fresh Food – Some reptiles require fresh fruits, vegetables and plant matter to thrive. Provides certain vitamins and minerals, as well as a source of moisture.
Vitamin/Calcium Supplement – Ensures your reptile gets proper nutrition in addition to normal diet.
Gut Load – You are what you eat, and so are reptiles. Crickets and mealworms lose all nutritional value within three days without food or water. Providing this to the crickets provides proper nutrition to your reptile.
Moisture Cubes – Crickets need water to survive and some type of moisture cube is a more reliable and hygienic way to provide for this.
Cricket Housing – Proper housing for your reptile’s crickets will help ensure that they survive until dinner time.